Summer in the UK often arrives with little to no warning – a sudden burst of sweaty heat that sees us scrambling to book pedicures, join queues for artisanal gelato, and flock to parks, beer gardens and balconies for a bowl of olives and a bottle of something deliciously cold. And whilst rosé and orange wine have each had their moment in the sun, this summer, it’s all about chilled red.
From garnet-hued Pinot Noirs to fruity Cinsaults and raspberry-bright Gamays – even the sparkly delights of a Lambrusco here and there – refreshingly cool reds can be grabbed by the glass at a growing number of London’s chicest bars and restaurants. Think east London Italian Tiella, Forza Wine’s new Soho spot, Greek Street’s effortlessly classy Osteria Vibrato, and hip natural wine bar Swirl, in Leyton.
Meanwhile, searches for “chilled red wine” are up 1,020 per cent year-on-year at Ocado, according to The Times. Drinking your red wine chilled isn’t new – in fact reds were served much cooler centuries ago, before central heating changed the meaning of “room temperature”. And a glass of red glistening with condensation has long been a common sight around the bars of France, Italy and Portugal. But in the UK, we love a rule – and for many of us, that rule was that white goes in the fridge, and red doesn’t. Maybe that’s why a chilled red has felt increasingly fresh, fun and just a little bit subversive over the past few years, not to mention lighter and more refreshing as our summers get ever more balmy.
“Rosé still dominates by volume, but chillable reds are growing faster – at least in our corner of the market. They’re the perfect option for people looking to explore,” says Josh Batt, head of commercial operations at Top Cuvée, a restaurant and online store that also supplies wine to retailers, bars, and restaurants across the UK. “People are starting to recognise that wine is more fun when you don’t worry about ‘the rules’. And over the past two to three years, it’s a category that more and more people are asking for.” Whilst most reds can be served at a traditional cellar temperature of 12 to 14 degrees, certain varieties really come into their own when served cool. Batt recommends looking for “low tannin, high acid, and light colour” as a general rule of thumb, picking out Gamay as his number one variety for chilling, and highlighting Doom Juice Rouge, an Australian Shiraz and Grenache blend, as a Top Cuvee bestseller with a cult following.
At Dalston restaurant and cellar Planque, the wine list features an entire section dedicated to chilled reds. In fact, founder Jonathan Alphandery says that all Planque reds are served at cellar temperature, “because there is nothing worse than drinking a lukewarm wine – regardless of what the temperature is outside”. When the weather is sticky, though, he’s in favour of turning the dial further still. “I think cellar temperature is already doing wonders, but on a hot day or in a non-air conditioned space, if you can get that closer to eight degrees, I think it’s perfect,” he says. “To achieve that, you can either put it in the fridge door and take it out 10 minutes before you drink it, or leave it submerged in a bucket with cold water and a few ice cubes.”
He notes that varieties like Gamay or Poulsard can be treated like darker rosé wines, pairing well with dishes like tomato salads, raw fish or Spanish-style rice. “Trust your eyes and the colour,” he adds. Really, though, it seems that chilled reds are an area in which anything goes – a soothing thing to hear in an area in which many of us feel consistently out of our depth (a waiter in Marseille once remarked to me that nobody bats away the advances of a sommelier faster than an awkward Brit – I think we’ve all felt shamed for a wine choice at least once). “Most people aren’t using a thermometer when they’re serving wine, so don’t overthink it,” Batt says. “And if you want to stick an ice cube in it, go for it!”
