In Proud’s new role as design director of Dagmar, she and Wallenstam have united on the (surprisingly rare) aim to dress women for their day-to-day realities: the school run followed by a work meeting, an impromptu post-work drink, a chic party after a kids’ sports day. “It’s about never too much or never too little,” says Wallenstam. “The Dagmar woman is relaxed and effortless.” In an industry of abstract themes and lofty collection references, Proud, a former retail buyer, has long been refreshing in her design approach. She’s less about over-arching ideas, more about fit and fabrication. “I am very product-focused,” says Proud. “I don’t have a broad vision… I want to speak to the customer and think about what she needs for her life.”
So what, exactly, does she need right now? Luxurious leathers; perfectly oversized painter’s jackets; sleek high-neck, scoop-back dresses; and distressed knits. “It’s actually quite hard picking my favourite piece,” laughs Proud, before reeling off a “soft and unlined” double-breasted check suit, a black V-neck dress with white contrast detailing and her beloved pockets “that you’d just throw on”, and a “really sexy muscle-back vest” as her must-haves. As for Wallenstam’s design darlings? She directs me to a croc-motif pencil skirt and a lightweight trench coat.
Malgosia Bela – the 49-year-old Polish model who recently showed off jaw-dropping Tom Ford tailoring at Cannes Film Festival – showcases Wallenstam and Proud’s debut collection. “The Dagmar woman has grown up and found an ease in her body,” Wallenstam says. “Malgosia is all about self-confidence.”
As for the women in the British Vogue office? Instead of the words, “It’s Raey”, echoing around our desks, in reference to those forever trenches, dresses and denim, come December, we’ll be stating: “It’s Dagmar.”
