You might not have heard of it (or be quite sure how to pronounce it), but bakuchiol is currently creating a collagen-boosting buzz on the skincare scene. In essence, it’s an ingredient that is often referred to as an alternative to the best retinol cream, minus the sting, irritability and redness often associated with traditional retinoids. Rooted in healing, bakuchiol has a long history of being used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine, says London-based aesthetician Dija Ayodele. However, it is now being championed as a natural retinoid in Western skincare research.
Vogue’s top bakuchiol products to add to your skincare routine now:
“Bakuchiol is plant-derived, from babchi plant seeds and leaves, and is frequently compared to retinol,” explains Dr Susan Mayou, consultant Dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic. “But it is important to clarify that it is not structurally or biologically equivalent. It does not bind retinoid receptors, but studies suggest it can improve fine lines, pigmentation and elasticity over time.”
Retinol is not always the most easily tolerated ingredient, especially for those with sensitive or rosacea-prone skin. It can also feel too harsh for over-exfoliated skin or for those with compromised skin barriers, and if you want to avoid the adjustment period that can leave the complexion red or peeling, bakuchiol is a helpful solution. In fact, Dr Mayou describes that its “anti-inflammatory properties may even offer additional benefit in calming reactivity,” which is why you’ll sometimes find bakuchiol paired with retinol to counteract its side effects.
Find out more about the retinol alternative as well as the ways to incorporate it into your skincare routine below.
Best bakuchiol all-rounder: Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides
Best bakuchiol product for dark spots: Paula’s Choice Clinical Discolouration Repair Serum